What this means is that a lapped zipper can be applied to a regular seam if it allows for enough excess for the signature top-stitching to be added properly. You'll also notice that this zipper style does not require the extension of seam allowance along the area of the zipper (unless the seam allowance is 5/8"or less). The stitch applied closest to the zipper teeth on the opposite edge (hidden by the flap/placket) requires the use of a regular zipper foot (comes with almost all sewing machines). The zipper teeth are aligned to the side of the seamline corresponding to the flap such that when the zipper is closed, the teeth are underneath the flap as opposed to the seamline itself. In actuality, both edges correspond to each other the same way they would if sewn into a regular seam. While the hand basting stitch is removed once the zipper is fully installed, it is often crucial in preventing mistakes and misalignment in the sewing process.Īlthough the flap portion looks as if it is overlapping the other edge at the seamline, this is actually an allusion created by the look of the flap. Adding a temporary hand baste, especially before topstitching on the face of the garment, is highly recommended in the zipper application process particularly for sewing beginners. Staystitch vulnerable curved edges or add seam allowance extensions where necessary for a more durable, clean finish.Ħ. Work on the wrong side of the garment unless the zipper application style requires a topstitch on the face side of the garment.ĥ. In almost all instances of applying a conventional zipper, start with the zipper teeth in closed position such as to facilitate their alignment to the seamline.Ĥ. This crucial step will ensure that the zipper teeth and the slider with tab remain hidden underneath the flap (once the zipper installation is complete) without distorting the seam allowance and fit of the garment.ģ. The portion of the seamline that houses the zipper should be basted closed according to the seam allowance and pressed open during the zipper application process. Once this is aligned properly, I will go back over and use a permanent stitch.Although we talk about the actual step-by-step installation of each zipper throughout our blog, it is important to keep in mind that when it comes to sewing a zipper into a seam, the following rules apply for almost all basic applications:ġ.Always finish the seam allowance edges before attaching the zipper.Ģ. I’m going to do this the first time with the basting stitch just to make sure that everything worked out. Notice how the teeth of the zipper fit right into the groove of the invisible zipper foot.įor the other side, I’m going to close the zipper and mark the placement of the seam lines on the other side of the zipper tape so that I can match it on the garments. I am using my Z presser foot, which is the invisible zipper foot. Next, I’m going to stitch the first side of my invisible zipper to the garment. At this point, I like to serge the raw edges.įor the sake of this tutorial, I went ahead and sewed up the bottom to mimic how a zipper installation would look when you are sewing a zipper into an actual garment.įirst, you want to prepare your zipper by using your iron to uncurl the teeth so that you can stitch as close to the teeth as possible to ensure that your zipper will be invisible. This will add stability to your fabric and prevent your zipper installation from looking wonky. To begin, we will place the interfacing on the wrong side on the outer edge, for the zipper will go and fuse it to the pattern pieces.
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